Cotton Elastane vs 100% Cotton Jersey: Which One Is Right For Your Project?

Ever slipped on a tee that fits like it was tailored just for you? Or maybe you’ve pulled on one that looked great at breakfast but was sagging and shapeless by lunchtime. The difference isn’t magic, it’s the fabric.

When it comes to knit fabrics, two heavyweights dominate the sewing world: cotton elastane jersey and 100% cotton jersey. Both are loved for their comfort, softness, and wearability, but they behave very differently once they’re on the body (and under your sewing machine!).

That’s why choosing the right jersey is less about “which is better” and more about “which is better for your project.” Need stretch and recovery? Cotton elastane’s got your back. Want breathability and a relaxed drape? 100% cotton is your best friend.

The Great Jersey Showdown

Think of it as a friendly fabric face off. Both jerseys come with their own set of superpowers, but the real magic happens when you match the fabric to your pattern, your lifestyle, and the person wearing the garment.

Let’s break it down…

Cotton Elastane Jersey: The Stretchy Superstar

Think of cotton elastane jersey as the yoga pants of your fabric stash - flexible, supportive, and always snapping back into shape. With a blend of around 95% cotton and 5% elastane (spandex/lycra), this fabric takes everything we love about cotton and adds just the right amount of stretch magic.

Because of that elastane content, cotton elastane jersey has a four-way stretch which means it moves side to side and up and down - which is exactly why it feels so good on the body. Even better, it has excellent recovery, meaning it bounces back instead of bagging out at the knees or elbows.

Why sewists love it:

• Stretch and recovery → gives a professional, store bought look to your handmade garments.
• Shape retention → keeps its fit after multiple wears.
• Body-hugging comfort → moves with you whether you’re lounging, working out, or chasing kids.
• Forgiving fit → perfect if you’re still learning garment adjustments, the stretch will do some of the work for you.
• Durability → the elastane fibres help resist sagging, making it last longer than pure cotton knits in fitted styles.

Best projects: fitted T-shirts, activewear, leggings, kids’ play clothes (they stretch, jump, tumble - this fabric can handle it), body-con dresses, form fitting skirts, layering tanks.

Pro tip: Cotton elastane jersey loves stretch stitches or a twin needle finish. If you want garments that look like they came off the rack, this fabric will get you there.

100% Cotton Jersey: The Classic Comfort King

Now, 100% cotton jersey is the fabric equivalent of your dependable best friend - breathable, soft, and always there when you need it. Without elastane, it’s a bit more structured and less clingy, giving you a looser, more relaxed fit.

This fabric is naturally breathable and moisture-absorbing, which makes it a favourite for warm weather sewing and garments worn close to the skin. And here’s the bonus: every wash makes it softer and that’s why your oldest cotton T-shirt is often the most comfortable one you own.

Why sewists love it:

• Natural breathability → stays cool in summer and is gentle on skin.
• Softening with age → gets better the more you wear it.
• Structured drape → gives casual patterns a bit more polish.
• Kind to sensitive skin → no synthetic fibres, just pure cotton goodness.
• Ease of sewing → slightly less stretchy, so often easier for beginners to control under the machine.

Best projects: oversized T-shirts, summer dresses, relaxed fit tops, baby clothes, pyjamas, and casual loungewear.

Pro tip: Pre-wash before sewing because cotton can shrink! Stabilising shoulder seams will also stop them stretching out over time.

Busting Common Myths

Myth #1: “Cotton elastane is always better.”

Truth: Not true! Elastane shines in fitted styles, but pure cotton often works better for airy summer makes and loose fits.

Myth #2: “Cotton elastane is tricky to sew.”

Truth: With the right tools (ballpoint needle, stretch stitch, clips over pins), it’s no big deal.

Myth #3: “100% cotton jersey is old fashioned.”

Truth: It’s a classic for a reason! Many modern designs look best in cotton jersey.

Pro Sewing Tips

Cotton Elastane Tricks:

• Use a jersey/ballpoint/stretch needle
• Test tension on scraps
• Reduce presser foot pressure
• Use stretch stitches
• Expect rolling edges — press and steam are your friends

100% Cotton Tips:

• Always pre-wash (100% cotton can shrink up to 10%)
• Use a walking foot for smooth seams
• Stabilise shoulders in lighter weights

Quick Decision Guide

Choose Cotton Elastane Jersey if:

• You’re sewing fitted garments
• You want stretch and recovery
• You’re after a sleek, modern look
• You’re sewing athleisure wear

Choose 100% Cotton Jersey if:

• You prefer relaxed fit garments
• Breathability is a must
• You’re new to sewing knits
• You want a structured, classic look

Let's Talk Real Life

Alright sewists, your turn!

• Which jersey do you reach for most often?
• Have you tried sewing the same pattern in both fabrics?
• Got tips or tricks that saved the day?

I’d love to see your makes! Share your projects with #SewWicked on Instagram or Facebook so I can cheer you on.

Bonus challenge: Make one pattern twice: once in cotton elastane, once in 100% cotton and see how different they feel.

Don't forget to share this guide with your sewing friends - knowledge shared is knowledge squared!