A Beginner's Overview to Sewing with Stretchy Fabrics

Are you hesitating to dive into the world of knit fabrics? You're not alone. Many sewists feel intimidated by these stretchy materials, but I'm here to tell you that with the right approach and a few key techniques, you can master knit fabrics and open up a whole new world of sewing possibilities.

Why Start Sewing with Knits?

Before we dive into the techniques, let's talk about why knit fabrics are worth your time. Knit garments are the backbone of our everyday wardrobes - think t-shirts, leggings, dresses, casual wear and underwear. They're comfortable, versatile, and more forgiving in fit than woven fabrics. Plus, many knit projects don't require complex closures like zippers or buttons, making them perfect for beginners.

Setting Yourself Up for Success

The journey into sewing with knit fabrics begins with assembling the right tools. While many sewists believe they need an overlocker (serger) to work with knits, your regular domestic sewing machine is perfectly capable of creating beautiful, professional looking garments. Let's explore the essential tools for your sewing machine that will set you up for success and make your knit sewing experience enjoyable and rewarding.

Needles

The humble sewing needle plays a crucial role in successfully sewing knits. Unlike woven fabrics, knits require specialised needles designed to work with their unique structure:

Ball-point Needles (Jersey Needles):

These needles feature a slightly rounded tip that parts the fibres of your knit fabric rather than piercing them. This gentle action prevents damage to the fabric's structure and reduces the risk of runs or holes. Think of it as the difference between pushing apart curtains versus jabbing through them.

Size selection is crucial:

• 70/10: Light-weight knits like silk jersey or lightweight t-shirt fabric
• 80/12: Medium-weight knits including most t-shirt fabrics and scuba
• 90/14: Heavy-weight knits such as sweater knits and thick milano ponte
• 100/16: Extra heavyweight knits and fleece

Stretch Needles:

Similar to ball-point needles but with a special scarf (the indentation behind the eye) designed specifically for highly elastic fabrics. These are your go to for:

• Swimwear fabrics
• Exercise wear
• Any fabric with high spandex/elastane content

Super Stretch Needles:

These feature an even deeper scarf and are perfect for the most challenging elastic fabrics:

• Heavy-weight swimwear
• Dance wear
• Compression garments

Twin Needle

Twin needles (also called double needles) are your secret weapon for professional looking hems and decorative stitching if you don't want to purchase a coverstitch machine:

Types of Twin Needles:

• Universal Twin: For basic knit projects
• Stretch Twin: For highly elastic fabrics
• Ball-point Twin: Specifically designed for knits

Spacing Options:

• 1.6mm: Narrow spacing for lightweight fabrics
• 2.0mm: Medium spacing for t-shirt weight fabrics
• 2.5mm: Wider spacing for medium to heavyweight knits
• 4.0mm: Decorative effects and heavyweight fabrics

Presser Feet

While your standard presser foot can work with knits, specialised feet can transform your sewing experience:

Walking Foot (Even Feed Foot):

This engineering marvel synchronises the feeding of both top and bottom fabric layers, preventing:

• Wavy seams
• Layer shifting
• Stretched edges
• Uneven hem lines

The walking foot works by adding upper feed dogs that move in harmony with the lower feed dogs, essentially "walking" your fabric through the machine. While it may look intimidating, it's worth learning to attach and use this foot for:

• Long seams in stretchy fabrics
• Matching stripes or patterns
• Hemming stretchy fabrics
• Sewing over multiple layers

Dual Feed Foot:

Some machines come with built-in dual feed systems, offering the benefits of a walking foot in a more streamlined design. If your machine has this feature, it's like having a walking foot permanently integrated into your machine.

Stretch Stitch Foot:

Designed specifically for stretch stitches, this foot helps prevent fabric tunnelling and provides better visibility of your stitching line.

Clear View Foot:

Perfect for topstitching and edge finishing, this foot gives you excellent visibility of your work area.

Choosing Your First Knit Fabric

The fabric you choose for your first knit project can make the difference between an enjoyable sewing experience and a frustrating one. Let's dive into understanding knit fabrics and how to select the perfect material for your beginner projects.

Understanding Knit Fabric Structures

Before fabric shopping, it's helpful to understand the basic types of knit fabrics you'll encounter:

Jersey Knits:
The most common and versatile knit structure, jersey is created with a single set of needles, producing a fabric that:

• Has a distinct right and wrong side
• Curls toward the right side along raw edges
• Features visible vertical ribs on the right side and horizontal loops on the wrong side
• Offers moderate stretch, typically 30-50%+

If you are looking for a fabric to try, consider cotton elastane jersey because it is an excellent starting point due to:

• It's stable and predictable
• Has good recovery (returns to shape after stretching)
• Is readily available and affordable
• Behaves well under a regular sewing machine

Interlock Knits:
Think of interlock as a double-knit jersey. Its structure provides:

• The same appearance on both sides
• Minimal edge curling
• More stability than single jersey
• Medium weight and excellent coverage

Double Knits:
This stable double-knit structure offers:

• Excellent body and structure
• Minimal stretch (usually 25-35%)
• Very little curling at edges
• A smooth, professional appearance
• Great recovery

Assessing Stretch and Recovery

Understanding stretch percentage is crucial for success. Here's how to evaluate it:

Testing Stretch:

1. Take a 10cm (4-inch) square of fabric
2. Hold it against a ruler
3. Gently stretch the fabric (don't pull too hard!)
4. Note how far it stretches

For beginners, aim for fabrics with:

• 30-50% stretch across the grain (width)
• Minimal stretch along the grain (length)
• Good recovery (springs back when released)

Recovery Test:

1. Stretch your fabric sample
2. Hold for 30 seconds
3. Release and observe
4. Good recovery means the fabric returns to its original size without distortion

Weight and Stability Considerations

Medium-weight fabrics offer the best starting point for beginners:

Ideal Weights:

• 180-220 GSM (grams per square metre) for t-shirt weight
• 220-280 GSM for stable knits like ponte
• Avoid very light weights (below 150 GSM) or heavy weights (above 300 GSM) initially

Signs of Stability:

• Minimal curling at cut edges
• Holds shape when hung
• Doesn't grow or stretch out when handled
• Feels substantial but not heavy

Colour and Pattern Selection

Your fabric's appearance can impact your learning experience:

Solid Colours:

• Make it easier to see your stitching
• Allow you to focus on technique
• Show tension issues clearly for troubleshooting
• Help you identify the right and wrong sides easily

Simple Patterns:

• Small-scale prints can hide minor imperfections
• Avoid large prints or stripes initially
• Be cautious with directional prints
• Consider patterns that don't require matching

Common Beginner-Friendly Fabrics

Here are specific fabrics perfect for your first projects:

Cotton Jersey:

• Perfect for t-shirts and casual tops
• Stable and easy to handle
• Available in various weights
• Affordable for practice

Cotton Interlock:

• Excellent for children's wear
• Stable and predictable
• Minimal curling
• Good coverage

Cotton or Blend Double Knit:

• Ideal for skirts and dresses
• Professional appearance
• Minimal pressing needed
• Forgiving to work with

Essential Techniques for Success

Now, let's talk about the fundamental techniques that will set you up for success:

Test Before You Start

Always, always do a test swatch before starting your project. This simple step saves so much frustration:

• Cut a piece of your fabric about 15cm square
• Try different stitch types and lengths
• Test your tension settings
• Practice your seam finishes
• Keep this swatch nearby as your reference while sewing

Mastering the Stretch Stitch

Your regular sewing machine has built-in stitches perfect for knits. Here are the essential ones:

The lightning bolt stitch is your new best friend. It looks like a narrow zigzag and provides just the right amount of stretch for most seams.

A regular zigzag stitch works well too, especially for seams that need more stretch. Start with these settings:

• Length: 2.5mm
• Width: 1.0-1.5mm
  These numbers are just starting points - refer to your test swatch to find what works best for your specific fabric.

Straight stitch with slightly longer length (2.8-3.0mm) can work for areas that don't need stretch, like vertical seams on loose-fitting garments.

Handling Your Fabric

Success with knits often comes down to proper handling:

Don't pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. Let your machine do the work. Guide the fabric gently, maintaining just enough tension to keep it flat.

Use plenty of pins or clips, placing them closer together than you would with woven fabrics. Place them perpendicular to the seam line to catch both layers effectively.

When cutting, ensure your fabric is fully relaxed on your cutting surface. Use pattern weights rather than pins when possible, and sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for clean edges.

Hemming Made Easy

Hemming knits can be tricky, but these approaches work well for beginners:

The double-needle method: Use a twin needle for a professional finish that maintains stretch. Remember to lengthen your stitch slightly (2.8-3.0mm).

The blind hem: Perfect for dressier garments, this technique is easier than you might think on knits because the fabric's texture helps hide the stitches.

The band method: Adding cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands might seem daunting, but they're often easier than hemming and give a professional finish.

Starting Your Journey

Building confidence with knit fabrics is all about starting with the right projects and progressively building your skills. Let's explore a curated progression of projects designed to help you master sewing with knits, one step at a time.

Project 1: The Basic T-Shirt
Your Gateway to Knit Success

Why Start Here:

• Simple construction with minimal seams
• Teaches essential knit techniques
• Immediate wearable result
• Limited fitting requirements

Key Skills You'll Learn:

• Working with stable knits
• Setting sleeves in flat position
• Neckband application
• Basic hemming techniques
• Understanding stretch direction

Project 2: Pyjama Pants or Leggings
Building on Basic Skills

Why This Project:

• Straight seams
• Forgiving fit
• Practice with elastic
• Comfortable to wear

Choosing Between Options:

Pyjama Pants:

• More relaxed fit
• Easier to sew
• More forgiving of mistakes
• Great for printed fabrics

Leggings:

• More fitted
• Requires stretchier fabric
• Tests recovery skills
• Perfect for solid colours

Project 3: Basic Elastic Waist Skirt
Exploring Hemming and Drape

Why This Project:

• Simple construction
• Learn fabric behaviour
• Practice hemming curves
• Experiment with length

Style Options:

1. A-Line Skirt:
   • Gentle flare
   • Flattering silhouette
   • Easy to fit
   • Perfect for milano ponte
2. Circle Skirt:
   • More challenging hem
   • Beautiful drape
   • Tests fabric handling
   • Great for lighter knits

Key Skills You'll Learn:

• Waistband techniques
• Hemming curves
• Working with different weights
• Managing stretch in waistlines

Project 4: Casual Dress
Combining Your New Skills

Why This Project Matters:

• Incorporates previous skills
• Introduces new techniques
• Creates a versatile garment
• Builds fitting confidence

Recommended Styles:

1. T-Shirt Dress:
   • Extended version of your t-shirt
   • Familiar construction
   • Easy to fit
   • Versatile wear
2. A-Line Tank Dress:
   • Simple neckline and armholes
   • Flowing silhouette
   • Minimal fitting
   • Perfect summer project
3. Shift Dress:
   • Straight silhouette
   • Basic darts (optional)
   • Side seam pockets option
   • Professional look

Tips for Success Across All Projects

1. Sample First:
   • Make test swatches
   • Practice new techniques
   • Test fit adjustments
   • Try different stitches
2. Documentation:
   • Keep notes on settings
   • Photo document steps
   • Record measurements
   • Save successful techniques
3. Progressive Challenge:
   • Master basics first
   • Add one new skill per project
   • Build on successes
   • Learn from mistakes
4. Material Selection:
   • Start with stable knits
   • Progress to stretchier fabrics
   • Experiment with weights
   • Try different textures

Remember, every sewist started somewhere, and every "failed" project teaches valuable lessons. Keep your early projects simple, focus on mastering basic techniques, and don't be afraid to experiment on scrap fabric.

The key to success with knits is patience and practice. Start with these fundamentals, and you'll be amazed at how quickly you progress from basic t-shirts to more complex garments.

If you're ready to start shopping come and browse my collection of knit fabrics that is perfect for beginner sewist!